do they sell them in radio shack?
if not were? tell me all the places they cell them? and how much would it be!

rolling tripods are Studio equipment and may be found in Pro Camera Shops or online supply houses. I have one that stands nearly 9 feet and I use a ladder to shoot from it.

Consider booms too… you’ll need wireless capabilities to use those.
.

http://laromanadreamin.tripod.com/CroppedPuppyPhoto003.jpg
yellow lab

http://static.flickr.com/86/246068122_9511fdaf0c.jpg
choclate lab

http://www.varmintal.com/black_lab_puppy_tide1a.jpg
black lab
why do it alwasy have to be atleast 2 people who cant just answer the question like normal human beings and say something no cares about Jessie lynn STFU…. who even said i was getting a puppy

I would pick black lab because i had a black lab and we had to put him down 3 years ago and it would remind me of him every day but you should pick the 1 u think is the cutest (thats wat i did for mi current dog)

What is the difference between tripod head, fluid tripod head, fluid effect- head, and fluid damping?

Please help me.

The last three are basically the same. They make camera movements much smoother by using hydraulics to cushion it when you pan or tilt.

A full fluid tripod head is going to be the most expense, but also work the best. Damping and effect use a slightly different (and cheaper) system to mimic the effect of a full fluid head.

My ball-head keeps unscrewing from the tripod when adjusting the camera laterally. How can I hold the head onto the tripod more accurately, without it slipping around on me? I don’t want to make any permanent alterations if I don’t have to.

Use Loctite blue on the threads

I have a Ambico model V-0552 tripod. Got if for cheap at a Goodwill store. Problem is: The small piece that attaches via a screw to the bottom of your camera is missing. Anyone know where I can purchase one of these? Are these a universal-fit sort of item or are they each unique in size? HELP! Thanks very much!

http://www.tripodquickrelease.com/Ambico_Quick_Releases.htm

I just bought this Vivitar 50x/100x Refractor Telescope with Tripod a few days ago, put together everything right. But I cant really see anything, it comes out so blurry and so hard to see. Can someone help?
I just bought this Vivitar 50x/100x Refractor Telescope with Tripod a few days ago, put together everything right. But I cant really see anything, it comes out so blurry and so hard to see. Can someone help?

and uh yeah I know I bought a crappy piece of **** but I’m new to this thing, I’ll buy a better one later on ^ – ^.

I wasn’t able to get any specs on this scope. So try this:

Take it out during the day. Point at something at least 100 yards away, but with features, like the end of a telephone pole. Use your lowest power (longest focal length) eyepiece. Do not use any barlow, if available. Lock down the tripod, if possible. Carefully align the finder scope with the primary. Find something as far away as possible. Repeat the finder scope alignment. This still won’t be aligned, but it will be better than nothing. Goof around with the focusing. It may be better if optimal focus is approached from one direction than the other.

At night, or as soon as you can see it, look at the Moon with it. Again, lowest power possible. Align the finder scope on some feature of the Moon. Goof around with the focusing. It may be better if optimal focus is approached from one direction than the other.

Try looking at a star. The North Star doesn’t move very much. See if you can focus on it. Bonus points if you see that it’s really a double star.

50x may be a stretch goal for this telescope. Go to a local astronomy club or star party and see if you can’t borrow a very low power eyepiece. It may improve things alot.

I don’t want to spend much money. I want a very good tripod but at an efficient price. Do I need to buy my tripod from Canon. How do I know what specific type of tripod I need for this camera. How about used tripods?

Thanks

You don’t want to cheap out too much on the tripod.

Read the questions posted by people who are trying to figure out how to "fix" their cameras after they’ve taken a little tumble on a wobbly tripod.

Most light weight tripods will work. If you want a good height (your eye-level for example), you’ll have to spend a little more money in order to get a more stable tripod.

I use a lightweight velbon, with a ball head. It’s the predecessor to the current Velbon MAXI 343. It’s an excellent tripod, and is small enough to pack in my suitcase, yet has enough extension to go to my eye level.

What brand camera?
What store?
What do you reccomend for me to get?(as in starter kits)
Any tips or other reccomendations?

The best thing for you to do is start by buying one or two magazines that have articles about video cameras, you could even go to your library and look up "consumers reports" in the reference section and read their comparisons. Try to understand what a few of the terms mean. Next go to a reputable electronics store, like Wolf, Ritz or a large shop in your area. Go in and tell them that you are trying to decide what to buy. They can explain the differences, the pros and cons and even let you look at one and even use it in the store. Sometimes the best one is the one that just feels right to you. Some are easy to hold, some are hard to use. It is a real advantage when you can actually hold and try the camera. Good luck. Don’t be overwhelmed by all the terms. If you don’t undertsand, just say "And just exactly what does that mean". If they don’t know themselves they will get the manager who can tell the right info.

Don’t be a slave to your tripod. Build this stabilizer and see how much better you photos and video can be. Get professional results. This instructional video shows you how to build your own stabilizer in 5 minutes for less than $1. It is super light weight and folds up small enough to fit in your pocket. With this stabilizer, you can hand-hold your camera with shutter speeds at least 3 f-stops slower than without. It works just as well with video cameras.

Duration : 0:1:34

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In a previous article, lighting was identified as the element which most determines the quality of an image. Working with available light and using internal flash and external light sources were discussed. In addition to the light present, the amount of light on the image sensor, or exposure, is determined by the opening/closing of the aperture and the length of time that the shutter is open. To better understand exposure, this article will discuss aperture, shutter speed, and the concept of “bracketing”.

Aperture is essentially the opening that allows light in through the lens. You will see aperture indicated in “f-stops”. The smaller f-stops represent larger apertures and therefore more light coming in through the lens. To state it more directly, the larger the aperture the brighter the light obtained. It is also important to realize that aperture also influences some of the focusing within a shot, known as depth of field. Technically, a camera can only focus on one item within a shot with items becoming less in focus the further they are from that point. The depth of field is the range or distance of items that are in focus; thus, an image with a narrow depth of field generally has a smaller area in focus. A wide depth of field is used when wanting detail throughout the shot but a narrow depth of field is desirable when a single object or person is the focus of the image. When using a larger aperture, depth of field is minimized while reducing aperture maximizes it.

Shutter speed is generally understood as the length of time the shutter is open. Slower shutter speeds allow for more light and faster shutter speeds less light. Therefore, a night shot often utilizes a slower shutter speed in addition to a larger aperture to maximize the light coming into the lens. Whenever a slow shutter speed is utilized the risk of camera shake is significantly increased and thus, tripods are often necessary to avoid blurring. Fast shutter speeds, such as 1/250, produce very sharp images and can act to freeze action. A slow shutter speed produces less defined images; images that demonstrate movement by blurring action. Just as with aperture size, the shutter speed selected is not “right” or “wrong”, it is merely which will create the type of image wanted.

It is important to understand that when adjusting shutter speed or aperture size it is often necessary to adjust the other to accommodate the resulting change in lighting. For instance, if a faster shutter speed is chosen to freeze action aperture size may need to be increased to obtain adequate lighting for the shot while realizing that there will be a narrower depth of field.

Digital cameras offer the user control over aperture and shutter speed. For the novice, a Fully Automatic Mode in which the camera decides on the shutter speed, aperture, white balance, and focus is most handy. This feature is often sufficient for producing excellent photos but there are limitations. For instance, the camera will not sense when the user is attempting to take a shot which captures faster action. Use of a shutter speed that is too slow in this instance will result in blurring. As described above, it may be advisable to adjust the shutter speed, and possibly the aperture size, for this type of shot.

Many digital cameras also possess a Programmed Mode which allows the user to select the situation that is most appropriate; for instance portrait, sports, or landscape, and the camera makes the decisions from there. As discussed above, adjustments in the shutter speed to allow you to create special effects may be desired but not congruent with what the camera assumes is wanted. Most digital cameras offer a Shutter Priority setting that allows the user to adjust the shutter speed while the camera determines the aperture and other features. In other instances, increased depth of field may be desired and achieved by selecting a smaller aperture. This is possible using the camera’s Aperture Priority setting which will allow aperture alone to be adjusted. The Manual Mode allows both the shutter speed and aperture to be manually controlled. Obviously, this mode allows for the most control of shots but requires a significantly higher level of skill.

A final word about getting the best exposure with a digital camera is about a technique called “bracketing”. Bracketing is used when it is difficult to determine the optimum exposure because the lighting varies within the scene. For instance, taking a photograph of a dog sitting in a snow covered field presents challenges based on the extreme contrast and reflection. Bracketing is simply the practice of taking several shots of the same scene with different exposures. Most digital cameras make this very easy to do as they can automatically vary the exposure, taking a shot at the metered setting and others which are under exposed and over exposed. The user then compares the images, selects the best one, and deletes the rest. During the editing process it is even possible to combine the best parts of multiple shots to get the best composite image.

Although automatic settings produce great images, even a novice can adjust shutter speed and aperture to capture action and create special effects within their photographs. Digital cameras make the process easier and less expensive through progressively manual controls and the option of deleting photographs that simply aren’t desirable.

Christine Peppler
http://www.articlesbase.com/digital-photography-articles/basic-digital-photography-taking-control-of-exposure-87402.html